Review: An ideal weekend getaway at Mallory Court in Warwickshire

You cannot help but be struck by a sense of grandeur the moment you arrive at Mallory Court in Warwickshire. This elegant and welcoming country house hotel sits in the grounds of a former stately home, just outside Leamington Spa. The pristine lawn of the main courtyard ushers you towards the entrance, past a neat square of bright tulips. The main building was built during World War I, but, festooned as it is with vibrant ivy and plush wisteria, it gives the impression of being older.

This central, surprisingly modern building is situated amid a swathe of quiet, pretty gardens – some for growing herbs and produce for the restaurant, some mowed short for playing croquet, most of the rest with patches left to grow wild for the benefit of local insects. Thanks to this, there are bees aplenty, as well as a clutch of hives that the hotel keeps – you can, given notice, arrange an “immersive” beekeeping experience. The hives are kept on the edge of the gardens, meaning the rest of the estate remains a perfect spot for an uninterrupted wander.

Inside the hotel, the suites are generously spacious, handsomely and individually decorated to give each a distinct sense of character and fitted with plush, super king-sized beds. Most of these rooms are in an extension built in the 1990s that overlooks the picturesque herb garden, although if you are checking in for a spa weekend, then those above the spa building may be more convenient.

The spa’s facilities include indoor and outdoor saunas and pools, a steam room and a gym. There’s a fantastic selection of treatments on offer too. The Revive & Rebalance Ritual is a body scrub followed by a back massage that leaves you feeling cleansed and refreshed, and I also heard great things about the My Kinda Skin facial.

Timeless classics with a swish of elegance at Mallory Court

Besides the spa, Mallory Court’s flagship restaurant, the Warwick (under the stewardship of Stu Deeley, who won Masterchef: The Professionals) is the other standout reason to visit. The restaurant takes timeless classics and adds a swish of elegance to turn out true excellence in its dishes.

The menu is quintessentially British, with some European and Asian influences. Vegetarian options are clearly no afterthought, and despite the allure of meat dishes, such as Ibérico presa (pork shoulder) and Lake District lamb, I went almost entirely veggie.

Burrata with beetroot makes an excellent starter, especially when the beetroot is grown in the hotel grounds, and the pine nut and furikake (a Japanese seasoning) garnish gives it a modern, umami twist. Cacklebean egg with coco bean and nduja cassoulet is as intriguing as it sounds – the egg topped with a nest of string pastry and swimming in what amounts to a rich bean soup that hums with the meaty tang of nduja.

For mains, that local beetroot once again stands out – in the form of a sumptuous beetroot wellington. Sweet and sour chicory and crispy hen-of-the-woods mushroom are worthy accompaniments, but the star is the smoked beetroot sauce, which delivers a meaty punch to this vegetarian dish. Black Bomber cheddar gnocchi with wild-garlic sauce is another hit – the gnocchi served like little fondant potato cylinders, pleasantly but not overpoweringly cheesy, adorned with peas, a verdant garlic sauce, and another little clutch of hen of the woods.

If, like me, you enjoy a Snickers, then you have to order the Dulcey Blond chocolate delice for dessert. It’s basically a snazzy Asian take on the classic chocolate bar. Caramelised miso and peanut brittle combine to bring the sweet, indulgent nutty flavours we know and love together with decadent levels of salt and umami. It’s addictive if you’re into that kind of thing. If you’re not, the baked Alaska might be more up your street – a sharp, fruity number singing with rhubarb (again, much of which is grown on the estate). On Sundays and bank holidays, you can also enjoy a superb afternoon tea, highlights of which include a fine rhubarb-and-custard macaroon and excellent home-made scones.

Connect with nature at Mallory Court

While you’re in the area, Leamington Spa is just a short drive away – or, if the hotel’s grounds have whetted your appetite for nature and wild flowers, Oakley Wood (around a seven-minute drive from the hotel) is a wonderful spot for a walk.

Between the spa, the restaurant and the charming gardens, Mallory Court is an excellent place to unwind for a leisurely weekend, connect with nature, and feel thoroughly well taken care of in the process.

Dan was a guest of Mallory Court. Double rooms start from £157 a night. À la Carte dinner at the Warwick costs £95 per person for three courses, plus canapes. Afternoon tea from £42.50 per person. Visit mallory.co.uk.

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