Enduringly Quirky Portland, Oregon Is Better Than Ever

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…and where to shop

Canoe: When design nerds from NYC and LA come to town, they put Canoe on their short list for beautifully curated, high-style treasures. It’s the spot to pick up a perfectly designed tote bag, a set of porcelain plates, or a Portuguese wool throw. Or maybe all three—there’s no sales tax in Oregon, after all.

Frances May: At ambitious clothing boutique Frances May, owner Pamela Baker-Miller carries pieces that are offered in only a handful of stores across the country. She also consigns unique pieces designed by local (mostly female) makers such as upcycled coats from MaKenzie Godso. If you’re lucky, you’ll be there for one of the pop-ups Baker-Miller hosts for brands like Portland Garment Factory, Colibri floral design, and other Portland creatives.

Woonwinkel: This 15-year-old shop is full of color and surprises like multicolored Dusen Dusen slippers, glasswork by Portland-based artists, and Sabre Paris flatware (made in France—Woonwinkel was chosen as the Portland retailer to sell it). It also has its own line of USA-made blankets and “place candles,” including one called Oregon Coast, which smells aptly of sea salt, wet cedar, windswept dune grass, and burning wood.

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A suite at the Ritz-Carlton, Portland

The Ritz-Carlton

Beds, baths, and beyond

Trendy spots the Hoxton and the Hotel Grand Stark are still choice places to stay, but these three hotels—two newcomers and a refresh of a long-loved classic—are worth checking in to. Cascada, a stylish arrival in the Alberta Arts District, has 100 thoughtfully designed rooms with sustainable furnishings like Portuguese cork couches and eco-friendly mattresses, but its real appeal is the spectacular spa. Cascada’s thermal springs include a skylighted pool area called the Conservatory, where you can socialize and order drinks; an outdoor Secret Garden, with a sauna, a hot tub, and a fire pit; and a subterranean silent area that has a steam room, a sauna, a cold plunge, and three soaking pools. The Ritz-Carlton, Portland, easily the most luxe stay in town, has sprawling corner suites, all with views of the city and stately Mount Hood. The 20th-floor restaurant, Bellpine, has a 14-page wine list with a strong selection of Oregon bottles and a new, globally inspired menu from chef de cuisine Jocelyn Chacón. Don’t miss the lobby bar, Meadowrue, for a delightful omakase experience from chef Ocean Carlisle. The Heathman, a storied 1927 property known for hosting celebrity authors and musicians who perform next door at the Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall, was Portland’s first luxury hotel. A recent facelift of the lobby and bar allows for a more seamless check-in, complete with a welcome drink and a bookmark with a literary quote tailored to your stay. Public areas like the lounge, which has its own bar, and a light-filled second-floor library are lovely spots to curl up with a book.

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