At 1,292 miles from its closest inhabited neighbor, Pitcairn Island, and 2,200 miles from continental Chile, Rapa Nui (Easter Island) takes isolation to the extreme. Here, at the lonely eastern edge of Polynesia, the empty horizon seems to curve with the Earth itself. It’s an extraordinary setting for one of archaeology’s enduring mysteries: Why did a group of Polynesians carve nearly 1,000 monolithic human figures (known as moai), haul them across the island to distant ceremonial platforms over the course of centuries, and then topple them all to the ground? There are plenty of theories, and fewer answers. It adds an element of mystery to an already dramatic landscape, and one that has proven to be timelessly alluring.
Today, this Chilean territory is essentially an open-air archaeological museum, with many of its enigmatic moai (representations of Polynesian ancestors) returned to their upright positions following seven decades of restoration. Of course to see Rapa Nui only through its superhuman past is to miss much of the story: The island’s distinct Polynesian culture remains a vital presence, particularly in its sole town, Hanga Roa, where nights come alive with cheerful ukulele music and hip-swirling dances. There’s also a vast, vibrant sea, windswept volcanic plains, and a food culture that draws on the island’s rich heritage and maritime setting.
As a repeat visitor to the island, this is my guide to Rapa Nui.
