The heart of this town is a neat grid of small roads, lined with shops selling tours and safari trips amid a jumble of souvenirs and handicrafts, alongside a smattering of local eateries. I didn’t expect to get wood-fired pizzas and chicken masala pies in Victoria Falls, but a clutch of little bakeries and cafes have sprung up to service the ever-growing tourism to the area.
But while tourism has boomed, the area still belongs to the wildlife. The town is encircled by protected Zambezi National Park, where animals roam freely throughout its 56,000 hectares. One morning, as we take a pitstop near a 1,200-year-old giant baobab known as the “Big Tree”, my guide Gerald Sibanda points out a huge elephant lurking in the bushes, with tusks like spears. “We still see leopards while driving in the night,” he says.
While leopards remain characteristically elusive during my stay, Zambezi National Park rewards in other ways. The boat transfer from Kalambezi jetty, at one end of Victoria Falls town, to my Mpala Jena villa is itself a safari of sorts. Barely 10 minutes into the journey, we spot two elephants swimming across the river, their trunks popping up into the air every few minutes. “They are coming from Zambia to Zimbabwe—they have no need for passports,” Gerald laughs. Matching my best safari sightings over the years, the sight of a mother helping her calf deftly navigate the mighty Zambezi and clamber up the muddy banks moves me to tears.
